Sunday, May 31, 2015

Chiang Rai

I'm back in Thailand! I liked it so much, I had to come back. Actually, it's just a short stop on the way to Laos, but I hadn't spent much time in the north, so it's a welcome one. Chiang Rai province borders Myanmar and Laos and is home to a number of hill tribes. I arrived in a holiday, so missed the chance to visit the hill tribe museum where I could have learned about them, but hopefully I'll get a chance to visit a few tomorrow. When I arrived, I first headed to the bus station to find out how to get to the Laotian border. My original plan was to spend the day here today, go on a overnight 2-day hike tomorrow and the next day, and catch the bus up to Laos in the afternoon. Unfortunately, although buses run until 5, the tuk-tuk drivers that cross the border go home and I would be stuck in Thailand until the next morning. That just won't do! I have a tour to catch early the following morning and a border crossing would certainly interfere. Alas, I have to stay another night at Le Meridien instead. What a pity! After a few (like 4) bad hostels and guesthouses last week, it's totally worth it. I'm really not a very good backpacker. At least I'm getting SPG points!

I decided to figure out the plan for the next day later and do some sight-seeing. First stop, Wat Rong Kuhn, AKA the White Temple. What a weird place! It's gorgeous, don't get me wrong. It also has some modern elements tied in, like xmen figures and other superheroes hanging about (literally, their heads are hanging from trees). A big bridge over a pond representing hell beckons you into the temple. As you cross the bridge, skeletal hands reach out of the water as if trying to drag you in. Quite dramatic. 

After a fair bit of searching and negotiation, I sorted out a guide to take me trekking on day 2. What the internet doesn't tell you about traveling alone during low season is that tourist agencies don't want to run a tour for one. Either they won't do it, or they will charge you for two. I was able to finagle a price of about 1 1/2 people so that I could go for a hike. I skipped the typical elephant ride part of the tour because I've already ridden two. That's probably enough. The hike took us through several local hill tribe villages, a tea plantation and by a waterfall. It was unbearably hot, but I survived the day. Coming back to the pool at Le Meridien was quite the reward.

 I paid a visit to the night market in the evening which was pretty meh. Same ol' same ol'. I picked up a pair of elephant print shorts to replace my missing pajama bottoms (wherever have they gone?) since I'll be sharing a tree house with strangers for the next three nights. Now I'm on the local bus to Chiang Khong where I'll catch a tuk-tuk across the border to Laos. This bus reminds me a lot of the bus I took a few years ago in Ecuador from Quito to BaƱos - only with  fans attached to the ceiling! Yay for $2 bus rides (it was really only $1.92, but who's counting?). I just hope it leaves the station before anyone takes the open seat next to mine. 

Saturday, May 30, 2015

Yangon

I arrived in Yangon at 6:00 AM exhausted from a restless night in a bumpy 12 hour bus ride. Luckily, my hostel let me check in, so after having some breakfast, I went straight to bed. Feeling more rested after a nap, I went to 999 Shan Noodles based off Trip Advisor and Lonely Planet's recommendations. This time LP was right. For just $2.10, I had delicious sticky rice noodles and a lime juice. Feeling energized, I was ready to get back to touristing. Looking at the map, I realized Sule Pagoda was a short walk away so I paid it a visit. Maybe I've been spoiled by amazing pagodas this past week, but it was nothing special. Apparently, it's older than Shwedagon Pagoda, the city's most famous pagoda, so I guess that's cool. It also supposedly has some of Buddha's hair inside. Ew. 
Everyone says that the Circle Line Train is a must-do attraction in Yangon. Since I was only 15 minutes away and wanted to save the other pagoda for sunset, I walked over to Yangon Central Station to board the train. For just 50 cents, you can ride the whole circuit around the city. I was a little skeptical about riding a train for three hours, but figured I didn't have anything better to do, so I'd hop on a get a taste of the local flavor. The first interesting thing I noticed is that everyone faces forward despite the seats facing inward. Little old ladies and wrinkly old men pull their legs in Indian style or squat on their haunches so their whole bodies face the front of the train. Some even trim completely around with their back to the center facing outward. This can be a bit weird if you sit the "normal" way, since the guy next to you is breathing into the side of your face. 

The next interesting thing to happen, and I'm using that word generously, was when a 50ish-year-old man jumped off the moving train as it was nearing a station, pulled up his longhi, pulled out his longy and started to pee on the tracks. I guess he couldn't wait! Another interesting thing about the train was the variety of goods available for sale. It's almost as if you could skip the market all together and just ride the train until everything you needed had come to you. Cheroot cigars? Of course! Mango? By the dozen! Lychee? By all means! Live chicken? Ice cream? Rice snacks? No problem! Or if you're feeling a bit more ambitious, you can exit at the Danyingon stop, which much like the train market in Bangkok, was set up on both sides of the tracks and cleared out of the way when the train approached. As soon as we departed, the vendors were back in the tracks selling their wares. 
And for the last interesting thing that happened on the train: a little girl got on and sat down next to me. She had a little bag of snack with her that she was quietly munching on. At first, I didn't really pay attention to what she was nibbling - until I noticed it was crickets. Lots and lots of seasoned crickets. She looked as if she was really enjoying them too, pulling off each wing individually and putting them into her mouth, really savoring every bite. So, as the train rolled back into Yangon Central Station, I assessed the past three hours of my day and decided that this trip is on the list of top things to do for tourists for one of two reasons. Either, the people who do it haven't even been on a train in their lives or there isn't much worth seeing in Yangon, so convincing tourists to sit on a train for three hours might distract them from wondering what to do all day. Either way, it was pretty boring. I'm glad I had a book. Since it started raining just before sunset, I decided to hold off on Shwedagon Paya until the next day. After 9 days in Myanmar, I am a bit tired of Myanmar food, so I went to Union Bar & Grill for some international cuisine. I ordered a Caesar salad and spinach ravioli. It was decent, but not amazing. I was just happy it wasn't rice and curry. 

I finally had a morning to sleep in, so I didn't set an alarm today. Thin curtains and no AC sort of ruining that plan, however and I was up at 7:30. Oh well. After breakfast and packing, I took a cab to the pagoda. Every cab driver in the city I have come across has tried to talk me into a Yangon city tour ranging from $60 to $80. I feel pretty good about walking everywhere yesterday, spending only 50 cents in the train and my $3 cab to the pagoda this morning. There is another (in my opinion better) pagoda next to Shwedagon Paya called Maha Wizaya Pagoda. Before walking in, I was making a mess of wrapping my longhi around me when a little old lady came up grabbed the cloth and took over. I was immaculately wrapped in no time! It's amazing how flattering a longhi can be when it's done right. I liked this pagoda more than its famous neighbor because there wasn't anyone there, unlike the crowded Shwedagon Paya. Also, it had a weird mystical forest inside with a unicorn and what looked like Dorothy's house from the Wizard of Oz on the ceiling. Not sure what that was all about, but it was different!

So long Myanmar! You've really been lovely!

Sunday, May 24, 2015

Mandalay

Before getting to Myanmar, I got a taste of what traveling there is going to be like. Two nights before my flight I received an email from Asian Wings, the airline I was flying to Mandalay, informing me that my 11:00 AM flight had been moved to 6:30 AM. The trouble with that is that my flight from Bangkok to Yangon where I was connecting for the flight to Mandalay was on a different airline and wasn't supposed to arrive in Yangon until after the next flight left. So...what do you do? Book a new flight! Air Asia wouldn't let me change my flight within 48 hours, so it was my only option. Good thing flights in Asia are cheap. 

After making it to Mandalay, I took a badly needed nap. I needed energy before my 20 km bike tour that afternoon. Grasshopper tours didn't disappoint! We traversed through the ancient capital of Ava seeing centuries' old pagodas stopping along the way for a roadside snack of fried tempura with chickpeas and some sort of spicy dip. We also passed by some villagers cutting down bamboo to later weave into sheets that are used as walls for their houses. The next town we reach after Ava was Amarapura, known for weaving. We visited a silk weaving workshop and saw some women in action at the loom making ceremonial longhi with beautiful designs. After that, it was onto U Bein bridge for sunset. We paddled out into a boat to watch the silhouetted figures of monks crossing the bridge on their way home for the evening. I enjoyed the tour so much, I've decided to do another one before I leave to see another side of Mandalay. 

To give my legs a rest, I hired a driver on my second day in Mandalay to see the sites within the city. The day began with a visit to a gold plate workshop where I saw how gold plate is made. As so many temples, pagodas and Buddhas are plated in gold, this is a big industry in Myanmar. We then paid a visit to Mahamuni Paya which houses a giant golden Buddha where devout Buddhist men (but not women) can pound some gold plate onto the Buddha themselves. This makes for a rather bumpy looking Buddha, since your average man isn't an artist at such a craft. We then got to see some more local artisans at work with visits to the stone carving district, a 
- wood carving workshop, and the jade market. While it sounds like the guide was trying to get me to spread around my western wealth by taking me to a bunch of places where you could potentially get suckered into buying things, the proprietors actually didn't bother me at all and I was able to walk away empty handed. There is no room in my luggage for souvenirs at this point. 

With the majority of our visits to see local life covered, we started back on the pagodas and monasteries beginning with Shwe In Bin Kyuang. This beautifully carved teak monastery was quiet and very peaceful. There wasn't another tourist in sight! The only other people I saw were monks meditating or going about their daily chores. 

Next stop was the flower market, an important part of Myanmar life due to the extent of alms giving in the way of flowers  for the Buddhas. It was a very busy and colorful place. We then ventured on to the Royal Palace, which was quite the complex. After having visited the Grand Palace in Thailand, the Forbidden City in China, and the Royal Palace in Cambodia, this wasn't as ornate or impressive, but I'd still be happy to be a princess there! While I was wandering around, a group of teenage girls and their mother approached me and asked for a picture. I assumed they wanted me to take their picture. When I went to reach for the camera, one of the girls passed it to her mother while she looped her arm through mine to have our picture taken together. I'd been getting lots of stares throughout the day as the Burmese probably don't see too many blonde girls walking around. What a trip!

Next stop was Golden Palace Monastery and Atu Mashi Monastery, side by side and yet very different. The former was a teak carved monastery with two gilded Buddhas within behind a barrier with a big sign forbidding women to enter. The latter, an enormous white-washed and golden building with an enormous empty hall housing a smallish Buddha statue. My celebrity continued within Atu Mashi Monastery where I was surrounded by about 20 children of varying ages who seemingly wanted to practice their English on me. I snapped a picture with them before leaving too.

My favorite stop of the day was next up: Kuthodaw Pagoda. This site is known to be the world's largest book. Surrounding the golden stupa, there are 729 marble slabs contained within their own small stupas which make up the entire 15 books of the Triptaka. Another 1774 slabs containing commentary encircle Sandamuni Paya next door. The vast number of mini stupas reminded me of the cemetery in Buenos Aires full of mausoleums. 

I got a lesson on Buddhism from a betel nut chewing monk at our next stop, Kyauktawgyi Paya. From the bits I could understand between his gross spitting and broken English, within the pagoda is a  giant Buddha made out of one slab of marble weighing 900 tons. He walked me around the complex, spitting out historical facts and red juice for about 20 minutes and then told me he wanted a donation so he could buy a new robe. I figured I'd be forking out some kyat at the end of his tour, but was shocked when he asked for $20! Unfortunately for him, and fortunately for me, all I had on me was the equivalent of $5 which I gladly handed over. It's not every day you get to have a monk spit on you!
Last stop of the day was Mandalay Hill. On our drive up the hill, we stopped for a photo at a standing Buddha whose arm points out towards the Royal Palace. We also attempted to stop and see a reclining Buddha but the doors to the pagoda were closed so I could only catch a glimpse through cracks in the walls. The view of all of the stupas filling the city and countryside around Mandalay from the top of Mandalay Hill was a great way to end an exhausting day. 

Power outages are very common here.  In the past 36 hours, there have been two. The first one was just before I laid down for a nap at my hotel. The outage was bread though thanks to generators backing up the entire hotel. Same thing happened while I was having dinner at Diamond Ring Indian Restaurant. They immediately ran outside and turned on a generator. I guess when you run a business and power outages happen daily, you've gotta have a back up!

Feeling I had a full day of the Mandalay sites on my second day, I opted for an off-the-beaten path bike tour on day 3. Since I had already done one tour with Grasshopper Adventures and had another one scheduled for the next day in Bagan, the manager gave me a nice discount. I'm happy I went for the ride. What was meant to be a 13 mile ride turned into an 18 mile ride to the local market and through the rural villages surrounding the city visiting a bamboo fan workshop, a mushroom farm (it's not what you're thinking...unless you're thinking of normal, boring mushrooms, in which case, it is) and a great little roadside tea house where we are all kinds of deliciously fried Myanmar snacks. Another lone traveler from Canada, Mike, joined the tour. He was flying out to Bagan later on the same flight I was so we decided to have dinner so that neither one of us had to dine alone. I hope meeting people is this easy for the rest of the trip!

In parting, I leave you with my final Mandalay discovery. The airport doesn't have air conditioning. To give you a feeling for what that's like, imagine yourself inside the dry sauna at your local YMCA. I say YMCA over 24 Hour Fitness or Equinox or whatever shmancy gym you might belong to, because this airport is more on the budget side of things (see a over re: no air conditioning). Then, schedule every flight in the country on every airline at approximately the same time so anyone flying out of Mandalay today is sharing that sauna with you. It's 97 degrees F/36 degrees C with a heat index of 111/44. I'm exaggerating of course, because it's low season and there actually aren't very many people anywhere, but the airport is still too hot to deprive passengers of their right to AC. 

Wednesday, May 20, 2015

Where in the world is Cameron?

Hey y'all!

I hope you're enjoying my stories so far from my three month adventure around Southeast Asia. I'm just finishing the 8th week of my 13 week trip. Only five weeks to go! Take a look at the map below to see where I've been so far.
My original plans included three weeks of volunteering in Nepal. Due to the earthquakes that devastated the country on April 25 and again on May 12, the organization that was hosting my project has suspended operations in the region until later this summer. As much as I would like to help the country in their time of need, it looks like I'll have to go to Nepal another time.

Since I'm not going to Nepal anymore, I've decided to stay on for those three weeks and travel to Laos and Indonesia after Myanmar (which was a part of the original plan). Watch this space for more updates about my adventures!

Friday, May 15, 2015

Chiang Mai

I just got into Chiang Mai and fell for a taxi trick at the airport. It cost me 160 baht to get from the airport to my hotel where in Bangkok it cost me 180 for a trip three times as long. Lesson learned. Next time I'll walk waaaaay out of the airport before saying yes to someone who looks all official with her smart little clip board. Oh well...it's only $5 after all. The owner of the company running the tour I am going on tomorrow, Jungala, came by the hotel to prep me for tomorrow. After informing me that I will be going on a completely different (but cheaper) tour than the one I booked, he warned me to bring mosquito repellent since Chiang Mai is known as the part of Thailand most prone to dengue fever. I could feel them biting me as he was talking and promptly ran upstairs to apply bug spray when we were done. Since I'll be out from tomorrow morning until 5 o'clock the next afternoon, I ventured out towards the river from the charming Sri Pat Guest House to see what all the Chiang Mai hype is about. First stop was Ginger & Kafe, a short walk from my guest house for some delicious red curry before a relaxing massage and calling it a night. I may not have seen much of the town, but at least I enjoyed my first evening in Chiang Mai!
Elephant riding in the river
The guide came for me at 9 AM the next morning to begin a two-day overnight trek into the jungle. We started off with a visit to a local market for any last minute necessities before heading to an elephant camp. After a leisurely ride for about half an hour which took us through a river while on elephant-back, we hopped back into the truck to go see a waterfall. My traveling companions for the weekend are two Belgian girls, a guy from Japan and an English guy. I'm glad I'm not the only solo traveler so I have someone to talk to. 

After the waterfall, we began our 7 mile hike to a Karen village. The Karen people are one of Thailand's hill tribes that still live very traditional lives away from the cities. The only way to get into the village is by foot or a treacherous scooter journey on steep trails. When we finally arrived, we were greeted by a group of boys and young men playing a game similar to volleyball but without using their hands. It reminded me of the way Brazilians play on the beaches of Rio. The Belgian girls and I watched as the two guys in our group attempted to join them. After about five minutes, the villagers demoted them from the court to playing with the kids on the side. 
"Home" for the night
As it got dark, a number of other villagers stopped by our tree house to sell bracelets, visit us (probably out of curiosity) and say hello to our guide who is from the village. He invited his "uncle" - which I gathered means literally every man older than him unless he has fifty uncles - to come play an instrument made out of a coconut attached to a bamboo shaft that resembled a banjo of sorts. After he played for about half an hour, the silence was broken by the sound of children singing in the distance as part of a honeymoon ritual going on in the village. The hike really exhausted me, so I turned in for a night under a mosquito net on a mattress in our tree house. 
Karen villager getting water from the river
The next day was very busy! Starting off with a two hour hike back to "civilization," we reached the starting point of a trip down the river in a bamboo raft. This is Thailand's version of floating the river like we do back in Texas, complete with drunk people partying and all! After our rafting trip, we ate Pad Thai for lunch and headed back into Chiang Mai. 
Wat Chedi Luang
My flight wasn't for another three hours, so I decided to walk around the old city a bit to check out the Sunday Walking Street and some of the temples. I managed to see Wat Chedi Luang, Wat Phra Singh and some other smaller one I don't know the name of. While I was at Wat Chedi Liang, I got a blessing from a Buddhist monk. He gave me a bracelet to wear to resemble the blessing and splashed some holy water on my head. Not a bad way to cool down! The temple was in the midst of a big offering ceremony to bring on a good monsoon season. It was packed with people offering flowers in masses for a good harvest. Sadly, after spending some time strolling through the Sunday market, it was time to head back to Bangkok. I think I definitely made the most out of my weekend though!

Friday, May 8, 2015

Kuala Lumpur

After three weeks in Thailand, I was approaching the point where Americans aren't welcome to stay without a visa. Rather than paying the Thai government more baht, I decided to hop over to Malaysia to avoid having to get a visa. It doesn't hurt that nonstop flights on AirAsia to Kuala Lumpur are cheap. As soon as I arrived, the most exciting thing about the trip hit me. It wasn't the smell of Malaysian cuisine or the fact that I scored a five-star hotel for $40. No, it was the fact that I was alone. For the first time since March 25.  As an extremely social person, this may seem a bit odd that I was so excited to be alone, but every once in a while (say 42 days) sleeping alone is a necessity. Sorry, future husband.
The Petronas Towers
After sleeping in for the first time in weeks, I walked out into KL's muggy humidity and straight into the Pavilion Mall across the street from my cushy room at the Prince Hotel. I should treat myself to private getaways more often. It's great! Upon arrival, I felt like I was back in LA. I spotted a Coffee Bean & Tea Leaf and The Counter in the first ten minutes. After caffeinating and gorging on a grilled cheese and half-and-half onion strings and skinny fries, I wasn't ready to leave the AC, so I wandered over to what turned out to be the nicest movie theater ever. The $20 ticket price is worth it for the Pavilion Mall Gold Class theater. I snuggled into my reclining chair with feather blanket and touch-button waiting service for two hours of side-splitting laughter watching Pitch Perfect 2.
KLCC Park
After getting a fix of dirty American indulgences, I was ready to wander around a be a good little tourist. I walked on the sky bridge over to the Petronas Towers and sat in the park nearby for as long as I could bare the heat (5 minutes). Somehow I ended up back in the air conditioned mall at Sephora soon after. 
These little pancake-like things were delicious!
To make up for my lack of cultural experiences during the day, I went on a walking street food tour with Charles, my trust guide from Food Tour Malaysia. Their Off the Eaten Track street food tour is highly recommendable. I ate all kinds of delicious things, none of which I know the name of. I also tried Nasi Lemak, the national dish of Malaysia, which I thought was pretty gross. I'm not a fan of the anchovy flavor in the sambal. 

Stinky Stinky
The other exciting yet gross thing I ate was durian. If you've never had durian before, don't. It smells so bad that its banned in most hotels and I was told it is illegal in Singapore. Don't quote me on that though; I haven't fact checked it. Regardless, it tastes slightly better than it smells, but since it smells horrid, that's still not good. 

Batu Caves
On my second day in KL, I explored the Batu Caves, just outside the city. The first cave I entered was really weird. It was sort of like a Hindu version of It's A Small World inside a cave that is also a temple. On the bright side, it was cool inside the cave. The main attraction at the caves is climbing up a really long stair case to a less Disney-like cave. For the Hindu people, this trek is a sort of pilgrimage. There were a number of pilgrims with their babies who had an orange chalky substance smeared all over their bald heads. It was a site to see watching the family carry the babies suspended in a cloth hanging from long bamboo polls hiking up the stairs while wild monkeys played around them. 


Friday, May 1, 2015

Koh Samui

Sarah's last stop on our Thai journey was Koh Samui. I'm gonna be so sad when she goes!! Dad was very generous with his Marriott points, so we got to live a little more luxuriously for a few days while staying at the Renaissance Koh Samui. The hotel was really amazing. It doesn't hurt that we received a free upgrade to villa with private pool. After walking into the room, Sarah exclaimed "this is the best place ever!" I'm beginning to wonder how many best places ever there are. 

Our honeymoon resort pool
We had a delicious seafood dinner overlooking the sea at the hotel restaurant after making ourselves comfortable in our villa. Then it was off to bed because we had another early morning of scuba diving ahead of us in Koh Tao. 
Koh Tao - view from the dive boat
Across Thailand, we've heard mixed things about which place is best for diving. Though it was dark in Phi Phi, so we couldn't really see, I'm going to have to agree with those who give the vote to Koh Tao. It was truly incredible diving. I finished my advance open water scuba certification doing a 30 M deep dive and fish identification adventure dive. Sarah is going to finish hers on Saturday after I leave and we'll both be Advanced divers! We really loved our dive master, Steve, from Discovery Divers. The boat was one of the nicest I've ever been on, the service was amazing, and the food they served us was even good. I've never eaten curry on a dive boat before!
Blue-spotted ray
After diving, we relaxed by the beautiful infinity pool drinking delicious coconut cocktails before dinner. For dinner, we went to this thing called the Thai Experience run by two (really cute) British guys. The whole idea is about bringing together travelers to teach them about the Thai culture over a long, lubricated five course meal. It was a lot of fun and the food was delicious!

Enjoying the Thai Experience
On my last day in Koh Samui, we took a cooking class at Island Organics with Lat. Her class is held at her home in the hills of Samui where she and her husband Cameron have an organic farm. We picked vegetables from the garden before getting started. The menu for the day was a ginger and tofu stir fry, followed by Tom Yum soup, yellow chicken curry and a spicy larb salad which Sarah made the traditional way with pork and I substituted for chicken. The food was really good. I'm looking forward to my first few dinner parties when I get to Seattle!
Beach-side fish stand
We returned to the pool after the cooking class and witnessed the hotel restaurant literally catching people fish-to-order for their dinner. There was a little stand set up on the beach and a fishing boat not too far off in the water. About every 45 minutes or so, a guy in a kayak would go from the beach out to the fishing boat and return with fish to take to the restaurant. I wish I was here for another meal! After some more pool time, it was time for me to say goodbye to Sarah and head to Bangkok to start my volunteer work for the next three weeks. Lucky Sarah still has two more days in paradise and the Full Moon Party in Koh Phangan ahead of her. I can't complain though, I still have seven weeks in Southeast Asia!